Shoe.



No. 821,935. PATENTED MAY 29, 1906.

A. J. GABRIELIAN.

SHOE.

APPLIOATION FILED JULY 3. 1905.

/iVEDlS d. GABRlELlAN, Ol?

tenth...

Specification of Letters lstent.

Patented Maty 2Q, MMM.

Application tiled July 3, 1905. Serisl No. il035E provenient in Shoes,of which the following description, in connection with the eccompsnyingdrawings, is o speciiicetion, like let ters on the drawings representinglike ports.

There ere two Well-recognized types oi shoes, the Welt-shoe and theturnshoe, erich having well-recognized advantages and disadvantages;sind the object of my inven ,tion is to combine in one shoe the salvotages ol both of these well-known types, while elimineting thedisedventsges thereof.

,ll/ly invention provides e. single-sole Weltshoe having the exibilityof s turn-shoe,

sind eccordingl hes the strength end wenn inA qualities -o the welt-shoeend the iiexihi ity end comfort ot the turn-shoe.

n-rnsking Weltshoes en inner sole is provided, which is tacked in placeon e lest end then the upper is pulled over or lasted and tacked to theinner sole, whereupon the sti tch ing-rib of the inner lsole, edge ofthe upper, and e, Welt (supplied by the stitching-inechine) ere sewedtogether', the reW edges of the Welt, upv er, end inner sole are trimmedend beaten own, the center of the inner sole is 'filled or leveled with-filler materiel, end then the soles ore leid on end the Welt and outersole are stitched together through their edges. This makes the shoe verydure ble, but lacking in flexibility and comfort.'

0n the other hand, the turn-shoe has the ietter features, but is'lacking in the former, as e heavy sole cannot be used in itsmanufacture, because of the turning process. ln 'making e turn-shoethere is no inner sole; but the outer sole is channeled in a similarmanner and then tacked on the bottom of the lest, and after thc'upperhas been pulled over thelast with its inside out and tacked to the solethey are sewed together, the tacks are ulled, the raw edge of the upperis trimmed, t. e lest is pulled out, and then the shoe is turned insideout, relasted, and beaten down. This turnin r ci the shoe not onlyrequires o, light and so `t outer sole, but it brings e strani on thestitches :md the inside channel openings of the sole, injures itsWearing quality, and also es the edge ol' the outer sole is thin endclose to the upper the latter has no proper support to keep it from theground.

ln making rny present' shoe I first ineke :i

special icriphern-l groove or channel in the outer so e, so :is toprovide en overhei'i ing retaining ledge or lip, sind then l sew ii- Wet to the rlower edge of the upper and insert the sewed seem in seidperiphersi channel be nenti seid overhsnging li and then stitch theouter edge of the We t directly to they outer sole. This constructionpermits .e heevy outer sole to be used, eliminetes the inner sole endordinary welt construction, end provides s positivo support for thesev/*ed edge or' the upper, thereby relieving the stitches of rnost ofthe pulling strain, (es distinguished 'from the turn-shoe construction,where the stitches :ire unprotected, and there fore endure :ill thepulling strain) und the resulting shoe hes ill the appearance ein. usuelWelt-shoe, with the flexibility sind eoniiort oi the turn-shoe,

Further deteiis of construction end 'method of manufacture-Will setforth inthe iolowing description, reference being hed to theaccompanying drawings, inwhich l lieve illustrated niy invention. n

ln the drawings, `Figure l shows e. shoe-upper provided with e welt.Fig. is e, crossA sectional view thereof.v -E ig. y3 is e top pien Viewof the sole. Fig. 4 is e cross-sectional View showin the sole end upperpartly united, and higs. 5 sind 6 e' e respectively e' cross-sectionalView and o broken perspective Aview of e 'finished shoe.

In meklng iny boot or shoe i first cut the upper accurately to thepattern and then put Q the u per ay together in the usuel xnenner, Asothat it eppeurs es shown in lFig. l. To the bottom edged of this upper lsew e. Welt b by e row of stitches b', pessing throughthe inner' edge ofthe Welt and the bottoni edge off' the u per. Next I provide in thciiiesh side oi" t e desired heavy outer sole c a, fieripherel channelc', so es to form an outwerdlyfoven hanging ledge or lip for retainingthe upper. The inner end or groove c3 of the chenn i c is rounded incross-section or comparatively Wide, so es to permit the two thic nessesof the upper sind welt to be seated firmly .end compoctly against theextreme inner end'o seid channel.

llsvlng formed the channel in the outer sole, the channel c and thebottom side b2 of the welt are cemented, end when dry (which isnecessary if rubber-cernent is used) the seemed edge oi' the Welt Z)sind of the upper o ere pushed inw ordly under the lip and seated irnilyin the closed end c3 of the channel* They are then pressed down tightlyby hand erhyinachine into the channel and around the outer sole. Afterthis operation the welt outer sole are stitched together, as indig'oatedat c".

It will thus be seen that a firm strong contdgrnctionis provided havingthe wearing duelities of a welt-shoe, and yet all the stiflness anddiscomfort of the latter' are elimii hated, and, the ilexibility and)comfort of a single-sole shoe-Ji. e., no inner-'sole layer or` filler,ite-are secured. The stili' `welt holds y the upper rmly pressed in`beneath the lip, so that the latter tales'most of the pulling vi5Vstrain, which would otherwise be brought by the upper u on the stitchesb', V(and when cement 1s us the latter also aids, of course.)

` Also the channel holds the seam', so that there is no .possibleroughness; but the main feazo tureo this part of my invention resides inthe outersole itself` provided-with aneverlipngingreteiningsliplcombinprd with tlil eving eir sea :35 makesiis-very tightfshoe and gives the solid substantialheavy appearance of.a welt-shoel Without the stillness of the latter. By my methodlzmake awelt-shoe Without an .inner j Sole Iand Without the lasting process.

After the welt and outer sole are stitched y together' the last is'putin the shoe 'for finishing andis lasted over, the counter on theheelseat to a proper litt and shank-piece the same senses,

vas used in a turn-shoe, and the sole is then leveled vandinished in theusual manner. c

I prefer to form the retaining-lip as an integral-part of the outersole; but it will be understood that I am not restricted thereto in allceses provided the seamed edge of the welt and upper is left free andsimply retained by an overhanging engaging means, which extends from'and is secured to the outer sole, my. construction re airing that the'upper and welt shall be served together at' their lnner edges, which areheld down by the overhangin lip, but not stitched thereto, the stitchinglta in place solely at the outer ed e of the welt, w ere the latter isstitched .irectly to the outer edge of the outer sole. Also it will beunderstood that I may employ the usual sock-linin and. other partsrequisite for acomplete s oe. Y

Having described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secureby Letters Patent, is-

1h shoe having its outer sole provided with e horizontal'peripheral.channel forming an integral thick and rigidoverhanging led e, an upperAand welt, the bottom edge of t e upper and the inner ed eof the weltbeing stitched fiat against eac other, and pressed firmly into thebottom of said channel and beneath said ri id ledge whereby theupper isretainedA by i s engagement with the sole, said Welt resting flat uponthe lower side of 75 said horizontal channel and having its outer edlgesewed directly to the outer edge of said so e.

lIn testirntmyA whereof l have signed my name to this specification inthe presence of 8o two subscribing witnesses. 4

' A .vEDis J. GABRIELMN.

Witnesses:

EVV. GABRIELIAN, Gno. H. MAXWELL.

